This is either one of the best internet wind ups/ hoaxs or the authorities need to intervene for the safety of us all. I heard about this 2005 Kawasaki ZX-10R which had been modified by what can only be described as an idiot, so I promptly went looking through the internet to find it and find it I did.
Essentially this guy wanted to lower the weight of the 2005 Kawasaki ZX-10R to ‘improve’ performance. Which, for a bike with a 1 litre engine, 180 bhp and weighing only 170Kg is going to be a challenge… but not for him, he reckons it should be around 136Kg – but how do we achieve that drastic weight drop? Welcome to Shervins ‘Come on Baby’ 2005 Kawaski ZX10R…
First of all, the ZX10r is an aluminium twin spar frame construction with the engine as a stressed member of the frame. Ths basically means there are 2 beams that run down the side of the bike and the engine is mounted inbetween which then supports the swingarm arrangement and seat. Hey, we know that these 2 beams hold everything together and take the majority of the stress in the frame but boy are they too heavy! Cut bits out of them is the tip here to save that bit of extra weight from all that light weight aluminium. Don’t let those nanny state physics scientists tell you otherwise, this will also give you improved airflow to the air…box? Which is a sealed unit – Nice.
Next up, you know that license plates are really heavy – do we need all that weight? I mean seriously? Thought not, drill a few holes to remove that crucial 5 grams and that will be like a 100bhp improvement from the weight loss.
Indicators? they’re for jerks! and they weigh a lot too… at least maybe a few hundred grams for all of them if they were made from something like stone. Get rid of them and say hello to multiple LEDs down the side of the bike. The thing about indicators generally is that they’re there for people to see your intentions of turning from either behind or in front of you… so LEDs mounted on the side of the bike must be really noticeable. Course, this modification for the ZX10r requires that you make some nice ‘air tunnels’ in the fairing first for the rear indicators, because there must be some serious drag on that fairing holding you back. Indicators also ruin aerodynamics but hundreds of LEDs won’t make much difference either.
Now, this is true, the average end can be a tad on the heavy side and you can get some weight savings here by switching to a performance one… but you could save yourself the cash and make one out of of some sheet aluminium instead. Baffles? Acoustic engineering? That’s all over-rated.
Bored with the colour of your disc brakes? Give them a bit of spray paint to liven them up a bit. Also adds to braking performance by reducing the normal friction material to… well nothing… nice and slippy that’s what we want here! Be warned that it apparently takes around 100Mph of use before you get your braking ability 100% back (when you’ve either removed all the spray paint or crashed and died). Pretty sure spray painting bolts and the calipers… heck.. anything to do with braking is bad mmm..k?
But wait! How an earth should you measure the weight of the bike overall? Have we moved from 170Kg… lets chuck it on the bathroom scales to find out.
My simple tip to save more weight than all of that combined is, before racing, dump the stump (have a poo). Oh and maybe lay off the burgers for a while.
Oh yeah, that guy studied mechanical engineering! Also he notes that while the ZX10r is meant to do around 38Mph on average fuel consumption, ragging it around 8,000-10,000 RPM and doing 104Mph in first gear seem to effect the fuel consumption quite drastically and cause gearbox problems though he doesn’t actually link all this together – well that’ll be a new clutch and gearbox rebuild then. Oh and first gear past 90Mph does tend to make the bike vibrate a lot apparently… can’t help but feel the vibration would be less if perhaps, oh I don’t know… maybe he didn’t drill out huge chunks of the twin spar frame and perhaps used a different gear?
Anyway, let’s finish off with some maintenence. Is your throttle too stiff? Want a smoother action? Then try this: Simply oil the inside of the throttle cable, ignoring the fact that the oil will eat through and ruin the innner nylon sleeve and eventually cause rust to the cable itself and cause a stiffer throttle.
Next, grease up that throttle tube – that’s what grips the rubber grip to the actuator that pulls the throttle cable.
Still a bit stiff, then lube up the handlebar before putting that grip on – basically that means the whole grip will rotate nicely rather than pull the throttle cable.
For more information check out Shervin flickr sets here